How your wardrobe choices impact the planet

By Robert Mutasi

In the era of instant gratification, fast fashion has become an overwhelming force with offers of trendy clothes at cheap prices and a rapid turnover.

Under the seemingly innocuous cover of affordable clothing, though, lies a shocking environmental toll on the global ecosystem.

The fast-fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to climate change through its extreme water use, textile waste, and greenhouse gas emissions.

As this issue spirals into an environmental crisis, Kenya, like many other nations,becomes yet another victim of the global fashion industry.

The fashion industry is among the most polluting industries in the world, responsible for an estimated 8–10% of global carbon emissions-more than aviation and shipping combined.

Huge amounts of water, energy, and raw materials are used in textile production. To put this into perspective, a single cotton T-shirt needs about 2,700 liters of water in its process of creation, which could satisfy the drinking needs of one person for two and a half years.

Synthetic fibers, most of which are polyester, dominate fast fashion because they are relatively affordable and very durable.

However, it requires large amounts of petroleum as raw material in the manufacture of polyester, one of the big causes of greenhouse gas emissions.

In addition, synthetic garments shed microplastics when washed, which pollute oceans and harm marine life. According to the UNEP, nearly half a million tons of microplastics reach waterways every year owing to the wash of synthetic clothes.

Then, of course, there is the issue of waste: 92 million tons of textile waste worldwide each year, much of which ends up in landfills or incinerators.

Of those garments, many are barely worn before they are discarded, reflecting the "wear it once" culture promoted by fast fashion brands.

Kenya has turned into a crucial role in the global supply chain of fast fashion, and quite unintentionally at that.

Several million tons of second-hand clothing—popularly termed mitumba—are imported into Kenya each year, primarily from richer countries.

While mitumba offers low-income populations accessible means for buying clothes and a source of employment for traders, the use of mitumba contributes to environmental degradation. Much of the imported clothing is of poor quality, leading to quick disposal.

According to a report by the Kenya Association of Manufacturers, nearly 35% of imported mitumba ends up as waste in open dumpsites, exacerbating the country’s already dire waste management challenges.

In Dandora, Nairobi’s largest dumpsite, mounds of discarded textiles contribute to pollution, emitting harmful gases and leaching toxins into the soil and water.

The imported cheap second-hand clothes have taken a heavy toll on Kenya's once thriving domestic textile industry.

Factories have been closing down, and employees have lost their jobs as local manufacturers struggle to compete against mitumba.

The Kenyan textile sector employed nearly 500,000 people back in the 1980s but less than 20,000 today.

Social and Environmental Cost of Fashion Waste The environmental effects of fast fashion in Kenya are not limited to dumpsites.

The water bodies become increasingly polluted by the chemical residues from textile production and dyeing processes.

Rivers such as the Athi and Nairobi are contaminated with untreated industrial waste, much of which comes from informal dyeing operators serving the mushrooming fashion market.

Besides, the circle of discarding and adding new clothes supports overconsumption. This behavior contributes to environmental degradation and works against the efforts undertaken towards sustainable living.

Everything-from the biggest companies to individual buyers-must be involved in this battle against the environmental degeneration fast fashion has brought about.

Brands need to step into sustainability by using eco-friendly materials, reducing water and energy consumption, and also making sure labor conditions are ethical.

Several international companies have taken initiatives of recycling old garments into new products, which is a positive omen for this industry.

Meanwhile, Kenya has also witnessed grassroots movements to support sustainable fashion.

Some organizations like Green Nettle Textiles spearhead eco-friendly alternatives in creating fabric from agricultural waste such as stinging nettle.

These initiatives give livelihoods not only to farmers but also to artisans. On an individual level, much impact can be created through reconsideration of choices regarding one's wardrobe.

Practical steps that could be taken include: Buy less, but more timeless, high-quality pieces rather than chasing fleeting trends.

Support Local Artisans: Investing in locally made clothing supports Kenya's domestic textile industry and reduces reliance on imported goods. Upcycle and Repair: Extending the life of existing garments by mending or repurposing them reduces waste.

Donate Responsibly: Instead of discarding unwanted clothes, donate them to organizations that ensure proper redistribution or recycling.

They could also accept the notion of a "circular economy": know people with whom one can swap clothes, or rent an outfit for a special occasion.

Most of the cycle of waste would thereby be reduced to a minimum. While fast fashion has an irrepressible environmental impact, change can come.

Governments must enforce stricter regulations regarding textile waste and stimulate sustainable practices for the fashion industry.

Businesses must innovate to meet consumer demand without harming the planet. And most importantly, individuals must make personal choices that take full consideration of the environment.

With its rich culture of resourcefulness, Kenya is better placed to show the rest of the world the way in the fight against fast fashion's environmental toll.

This would involve embracing sustainable practices and the revival of the country's domestic textile industry to usher the country into a greener future while preserving the unique heritage.

Our choices carry a lot of power as consumers. Next time you reach for that trendy outfit, consider the environmental story behind the seams. We can change fashion from a climate threat into a tool for sustainable progress.